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Sole and dabs are delicate creatures suited to butter and lemon and little else, served with green peas, white bread and butter. You can cut the crusts off and wear a pair of white gloves while eating, if you like.

Sole Véronique is an easier-than-it-sounds Special Dish, involving grapes, vermouth and cream.

If you like butter, prepare the ultimate: à la meunière. Take any flat white fish, lightly-flour it, and let it swim in a shallow pan of hot butter till the flesh just sets. Sprinkle with lemon juice, noisette butter and parsley. It is sublime.

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